By Sarah Golibart Gorman, contributor
Foodie Q&A is a series showcasing the Harrisonburg food community. Food enthusiast and storyteller Sarah Golibart Gorman interviews food and drink makers behind the Friendly City food scene. You’ll read about their origins, creative processes, aspirations, and go-to spots in town. Fresh articles drop the second Tuesday of each month from June 2024 to June 2025.
This month, Gorman sat down with Maria Cooper to discuss her journey from baking at Black Sheep to kitchen managing at Broad Porch. From her Italian roots to her passion for seasonal ingredients, Maria shares what inspires her in the kitchen.
Gorman: Can you tell me where you grew up and about the food you grew up eating?
Cooper: I was born in Harrisonburg, but from the time I was seven until I turned 18, I lived in Pennsylvania. After high school, my family moved back to the area.
I grew up in a big Italian household. My grandmother, when she moved to America, started working in restaurants because that’s what she knew how to do. I was always around her and my mom when they were cooking. In our family, everything revolves around food—it’s how we connect.
Our family gatherings were always centered around cooking. For example, once a year, we’d all get together to make wine or sausage, and those were basically our family reunions. Being part of those traditions gave me a deep love for cooking and showed me how food brings people together.
We’re a spread-out family, but food has always been what connects us. I didn’t realize I could make a career out of cooking until I started working. Then I thought, “Oh, I can just keep doing this—I don’t have to go to college.” So growing up in that kind of culture is really what sparked my love for cooking.
Gorman: Can you share about your family’s winemaking process?
Cooper: It’s kind of a DIY process—it all happens in our basement. We go to Pittsburgh to pick up what we need, whether it’s grapes or juice, and then bring it back home. My dad built this makeshift wine cellar in our basement that’s temperature-controlled, and he has a lot of fun with it.
My grandpa started making wine ages ago, and my dad has carried on the tradition. We used to use this massive grape crusher my grandfather had, but it’s really labor-intensive, so we haven’t used it in years. These days, we’ve switched to buying juice instead of fresh grapes.
We don’t add yeast or sugar; it’s all natural fermentation. Our basement is full of carboys of wine and braided garlic hanging from the walls—it’s very Italian. Honestly, it’s kind of comical walking through our basement sometimes—it feels almost too Italian! But it’s a lot of fun.
Gorman: When did you begin cooking and who taught you?
Cooper: There were a few summers when I worked with my grandmother at her Italian restaurant in West Virginia. It wasn’t a consistent job, but I think that’s where it all started. Then, when I moved to Harrisonburg at 18, I got a job at Black Sheep. That’s when I started baking—it was my first proper food job.
From there, I moved to Magpie and baked there for about two years. Working at Magpie was when I realized, “I really want to do this.” It felt like the perfect job. After that, I moved to Vermont for a year and worked at a farm-to-table restaurant in the pastry department since my background was pastry-focused. That was my first structured restaurant experience—chef coats, the whole deal—and it was really fun. I learned so much there.
When I moved back to Harrisonburg, Jill and Phil [of Broad Porch Coffee Co] were hiring for bakers. I applied, and then they mentioned they were looking for a kitchen manager. I thought, “Why not?” and went for it. I wasn’t expecting to take on that role, but I’m so glad I did—it’s been a lot of fun.
Gorman: What are your responsibilities as kitchen manager?
Cooper: Mainly, I help Jill create the menu and bounce ideas off of her. I also handle scheduling, food ordering, and things like that. A lot of it involves floating around and making sure everything is running smoothly.
This is my first managerial job, so there’s definitely a learning curve. I’m trying to figure out what roles need to be filled and how to best support the team. My main tasks include scheduling, ordering, ensuring shifts flow smoothly, helping with prep, writing recipes, and making sure everything is as clear as possible for everyone working there.
Gorman: What’s kept you in Harrisonburg?
Cooper: Honestly, I think Harrisonburg has a really great community. I’ve made amazing friends here—people I always want to be around. My family is close by, too. I have four brothers, and they’re all scattered around this area, and my parents live nearby as well. Being close to them is a big reason I’ve stayed.
Harrisonburg also feels like a unique place to live. You’ve got the mountains, and the town itself has grown so much since we lived here in the early 2000s. Coming back, it’s been amazing to see how much it’s changed and to watch it continue to grow. I think the potential of this town is another reason I’ve stuck around.
Gorman: Can you share about your creative process when you’re developing menus and recipes?
Cooper: I think it’s definitely seasonal for me. It starts with what produce we have to work with—what’s available at the moment. For this kitchen, it’s about balancing creativity with practicality. I want to create exciting dishes, but I also have to think about what will sell to the general public, which isn’t always the same thing.
I also pull from childhood meals—dishes I grew up with—and think about how to reimagine them into something that fits the style of the kitchen. The arancini which was on our first menu is based on my grandmother’s recipe, and that was a great seller. On one of the seasonal dinner menus, the green pasta we featured was inspired by something I ate a lot as a child.
Gorman: What aspirations do you have for the future? What’s next for you in your food journey?
Cooper: That’s a great question. Honestly, I feel like everything that’s happened in my food journey so far has been unexpected, so it’s hard to say for sure.
One thing I’d love to do is continue our seasonal dinners. The first one we did was so much fun, and I thought it went really well. Long-term, I’d like to keep hosting dinners—ones that are carefully curated with creative menus where you can really go all out. I just love the idea of bringing people together through food in that way.
Gorman: What are some of your go-to spots in town to eat or drink?
Cooper: For drinks, I’d say Rootstock Wine Bar. I’m definitely more of a wine person than a cocktail person, so Rootstock is a favorite. I also love the bar at Local Chop & Grill House—they have really good wings, and their dirty martini is fantastic.
Gorman: Who would you love to cook for? Anyone in the world who you admire.
Cooper: Honestly, I think my grandma. I’d love to make her something she always made for me as a child—that would mean the most to me. I’d probably make her pasta fagioli. It was her go-to. Whenever we’d travel to see her, she’d ask if we wanted dinner, and we’d say no because we’d already eaten or planned to eat before arriving. But without fail, she’d have a big pot ready for us when we got there.
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